I got a few hours to myself this afternoon so I got a few things done to the arcade machine that I have been dying to do for ages.

T-molding on control panel: Managed to get some t-molding attached to the control panel.

galaga control panel with t-molding galaga control panel with t-molding (part II)

T-molding on top half sides: I really worked hard on taking my time doing this as I have learned from experience that cutting the slots requires a bit of concentration to ensure that the slot-cutter does not wander from the centre line. You can see that I did not concentrate hard enough – I had to use a bit of duct tape to fatten up a small section of the t-molding to ensure a snug fit.

close-up of slot borked slot

Tools to cut slots for t-molding

Tools: You need a few tools to get this right:

  • ear muffs: so the router doesn’t make you deaf
  • rubber mallet: to bang the t-molding into the slot. I once tried it just by using the heel of my hand – not a good idea – hurts too much the next day. Followed that up with a standard hammer – not a goo idea – marks the t-molding. Get a rubber mallet.
  • clamps: to stop the timber moving when cutting slots and banging in t-molding
  • gloves: to protect my dainty hands from splinters
  • pencil: mark out where the starting point of the t-molding. When I pull it out to paint the timber I know the exact point to put the t-molding. Yay for thinking ahead.
  • t-molding: to make your timber pretty and comfortable.
  • router: to cut slots. My router is adjustable from about 22,000 rpm to 32,000 rpm. Cut slots as slow as possible – otherwise flaming timber is the result…
  • chisel: I needed this to help bang in the t-molding on the internal corne. (In the pic the corner I am talking about is between the duct tape and the utility knife). The handle of the chisel had a diamater that matched the curvature of the corner, and was also coated in rubbery material that would not damage the t-molding.
  • duct tape: if you make your slot to big you can use some duct-tape to fatten up the bottom of the ‘T’ to make a snug fit.
  • screwdriver: toaid in the removal of the t-molding
  • utility knife: cut little wedgesfrom the base of the t-molding so going around corners does not crimp the t-molding.

cut a notch to go around hard corners

Removed speakers from the TV:  It took me ages to pull the back off the tv, remove the speakers, av-inputs and back-plane and chop off the speakers from the sides of the TV.

trimmed the speakers from the sides of the TV I can see your insides!

I am going to lengthen the wires from the tv to the speakers and mount them above the TV – behind or below the marquee.

Categories: MAME

1 Comment

Justin · July 22, 2008 at 2:19 pm

That is look soooo nice. It’s cool how you’re documenting it all.

I also like how in some of the shots you can see half empty cases of Boag’s and Carlton. Nice touch!!

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